Planting and Caring for Trees

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White Dogwood Tree

Planting a native tree is one of the easiest and most important actions you can take to improve the environment, increase property values, and improve the quality of life for yourself and your neighbors. The tree you plant can bring joy for decades or even centuries if properly selected and cared for, as this flier explains. The information below can help you decide what to plant and make sure the tree (or even better, a small grove of trees) will thrive. You can always contact us via stc@abingtonpa.gov for assistance.

Before you cut down a tree, consult the Tree Maintenance information below. If you do have to remove a tree, be sure to plant a replacement - or better yet, several young trees, to ensure that your family and future generations will continue to enjoy the many benefits that trees provide.

Please click on the tabs below to expand more information about each topic.

Why plant a native tree?

Abington’s private residences grow 74% of our tree canopy, and every year we lose more of that canopy as homeowners cut down trees. Since 2004, Abington has lost 1 in 8 trees, which is about 10% of the tree canopy. Decades of research shows that losing trees negatively impacts our community in a variety of ways ranging from lower property values to increased flooding to the loss of wildlife that rely on those trees.
Collectively, Abington’s residents can reverse these trends by planting more trees. Click here to read more details on the Benefits of Having Trees.

moth caterpillar eating an oak tree

How to pick the right trees for your property?

A list of recommended trees is available on our Recommended Trees for Abington page.
As the saying goes, pick the right plant for the right space. This is particularly important for trees. Your tree may live for hundreds of years, so it is important to plant it in the right place.
The Arbor Day Foundation has information about how to pick the right tree for the right place: https://www.arborday.org/trees/righttreeandplace/
If you are thinking about planting a tree near power lines, follow PECO’s guide to choose a tree that will stay out of the way of the lines: https://www.peco.com/SafetyCommunity/Safety/Pages/TPPlantingTrees.aspx (some of the plant recommendations on PECO's website are invasive in our area, so please consult other sources for species selection)
Spend some time to do research about which trees you are interested in and what you are looking to get out of a tree. Are you after a tree that has high value to wildlife (like an oak), or is fast growing (like a black cherry), or provides good fall color (like a red maple), or has spring flowers (like a dogwood)? No matter what you are looking for, there is a tree for you and your space. Staff at a nursery may also be able to help you pick out a tree, but make sure you choose a native species whenever possible.
Whenever possible, plant native trees rather than exotic species that often become invasive (like Callery Pears and Zelkova); more and more trees from other parts of the world are becoming invasive in Pennsylvania. If you are shopping at a nursery, ask the staff specifically to show you trees that are native to our region.
The Morton Arboretum has a particularly helpful database of trees and other plants, including selected cultivars for each species: https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/search-trees-and-plants/ Please note that the database includes non-native species, so be sure to focus on the natives recommended by the STC.

When possible, plant a group of trees together

Research shows that a standalone specimen tree is not the best way to plant trees in our region. Trees naturally grow together, and they are adapted to having their roots intertwined to support each other as they age. A small grouping of trees can withstand heavy winds better than a single tree can on its own. And in the short term, a grouping of trees will provide more shade faster.
Plant trees roughly 10 feet apart to allow the roots to grow together and the trees to form windbreaks for each other. Do not feel constrained to plant far apart based on their eventual canopy; trees do not grow that far apart naturally. As any forest shows, trees that are planted together when they are young will grow together as they age.

group of trees

Buying a tree

Bigger is not necessarily better when purchasing a tree. A younger tree establishes more quickly with less care, and because younger trees have less transplant shock, they grow faster and within a few years will outpace the growth of a tree that was bigger when it was planted. Plus, smaller trees are easier to plant because they need smaller holes. You will need to balance the instant effect from planting a large tree with the delayed satisfaction of letting a younger tree grow and fill the space.
Many local nurseries sell trees that you can either take home in a car or, for a fee, can be delivered to your home. Trees can also be ordered from online nurseries and shipped.
In collaboration with Abington's Environmental Advisory Council, a list of nurseries where homeowners and businesses can purchase native plants including trees is here.
Trees come from a nursery in three basic forms: in a container, bareroot, or balled and burlapped. The University of Maryland Extension has helpful information about each option: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/purchasing-trees-and-shrubs.
Of course, you do not need to buy a tree–you can also grow one from seed. Seeds like acorns are readily available (and often free, if you ask the property owner for permission to collect). Starting a tree from seed permits the tree to establish its root structure in its new home from day one, without the risk of ever having its roots disturbed by being transplanted. This will overall lead to the healthiest and fastest-growing trees.

Planting the tree

Plant a tree the right way, and it will thrive with little or no maintenance. Plant a tree the wrong way, and it will be on the road to an early death. Thankfully, planting trees the right way is quite simple.
- The Arbor Day Foundation has a straightforward guide, which includes videos: https://www.arborday.org/trees/planting/containerized.cfm
- Additional detailed information is available from the University of Maryland Extension: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/planting-tree-or-shrub
Key tips to avoid common mistakes:
- Deep holes kill trees: find the “root flare”—where the bottom of the trunk flares out and the roots begin—and keep the hole shallow enough that the root flare is slightly above ground level;
- Do not add any fertilizer, compost, or any other amendments to the hole; just put the same soil you removed back in around the tree;
- Mulch around the tree with compost, shredded leaves, or wood mulch, to a depth of 2-3 inches, but do not pile the mulch up around the tree or let it touch the trunk, which will rot and slowly kill the tree.

Watering the tree

A newly planted tree needs regular watering to successfully establish itself and stay alive. After they are established, trees require supplemental water only in extraordinary circumstances of extreme drought.
Water trees regularly for the first 1-2 years as they establish healthy root systems. The Arbor Day Foundation has guidance on how to properly water, which includes the video below: https://arbordayblog.org/treecare/how-to-properly-water-your-trees/.

Focus on slow and deep watering, which helps the tree grow a root system that is deeper and better prepared for drought. Spraying water at the tree every day is the wrong way to water; instead, put the hose on a trickle and let it sit at the base of the tree once a week.

Mulching

Mulching is important to conserve soil moisture, reduce weeds, and add organic matter to the soil.
Improper mulching is the number one reason why trees–whether newly planted or mature–die a premature death.
- “Volcano mulching” is the WRONG way to mulch, as this flier explains. It is unfortunately common at residential and commercial properties across Abington despite a wealth of resources explaining the harms. The reasons for it simply seem to be that the people spreading mulch were never properly trained on how to mulch and copied the bad behavior they saw from other improperly trained individuals. The property owner pays for more mulch than they need and then pays again when they have to replace the tree that dies after a few years of suffering from volcano mulching.
- If mulch is pushed up against the trunk and touching the trunk, it will rot the trunk and kill the tree.
- To avoid volcano mulching, use the 3:3:3 rule:
  - Apply mulch to a depth of 3 inches and
  - Pull the mulch 3 inches away from the base of the trunk, ensuring that the root flare is fully exposed, and
  - Make sure the mulch is a 3’ radius from the tree trunk
  - Too little mulch and you will not receive the moisture retention and weed suppression benefits. Too much and water will not reach the roots.
Choosing mulch
- Use a mulch that is a natural, organic material. Shredded bark, leaf compost, shredded leaves, pine needles, or wood chips are all effective mulches. As they decompose, they add organic matter to the soil that helps feed the tree and improves the soil structure, allowing it to both become better draining while also holding more water.
- Avoid dyed mulch, as the dye may leach into the soil and the wood that is dyed may be from questionable material like chipped shipping pallets that have been treated with pesticides.
- Rubber “mulch” should not be used under any circumstances. It traps heat and does not allow water to percolate into the soil. Worse, studies have shown that it can contain chemicals that are extremely toxic to humans and other animals.

Staking

Trees generally do not need to be staked when they are planted. Staking can be bad for trees, as the natural swaying from the wind helps the tree grow stronger anchoring roots and trunk to support it.
If your tree is top heavy and requires staking, do not leave the stakes on for more than one year. You must remove the staking or the support will cut into the bark as the tree grows, damaging and potentially killing the tree. Be sure to use a soft material against the bark so that it does not damage the trunk.
The Tree Protection information from the University of Maryland Extension has additional useful information on these care topics: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/planting-tree-or-shrub

Deer Protection

Many areas of Abington Township have high deer populations, and young trees can fall victim to deer through excessive browse of young branches and leaves and through buck rub damage in the fall. You will need to protect any new trees for several years if you have deer in your area.
Deer damage trees in two ways.
- First, deer will eat the leaves and twigs of most trees when they are under 5 feet tall. Accordingly, cage your trees using five-foot tall welded wire mesh, which is available at home stores. Cut the wire into a length of about 9 feet, which will give you a diameter of about 3 feet. Place a stake (such as a t-post or a piece of bamboo) in the ground to hold the cage and place the cage around the stake and tree. Tie the cage to the stake to hold it in place.
- Second, male deer (bucks) rub the velvet off their antlers against trees in the fall, beginning in September or October. This severely damages trees by removing their bark, which can even kill trees. After your tree is big enough that it does not need to be caged to protect from browsing, it still needs protection in the fall against buck rubbing. Use mesh netting or other products to protect the area roughly 1.5’ – 3.5’ above ground.
- The Tree Protection information from the University of Maryland Extension has additional useful information on these care topics: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/planting-tree-or-shrub

Tree Maintenance

Trees are like any other part of the infrastructure. In a human environment, they require maintenance to perform in the way that we desire. To be clear: trees will generally grow fine on their own with no intervention from humans. But in a managed space, it is important to care for trees.
Whenever you are doing work on a tree, we urge you to consult with an arborist certified by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). ISA-certified arborists are experts at tree health and caring for trees. While there are many companies that purport to offer tree services, ISA-certified arborists can help you determine if your trees are healthy, need any care, and if they have become dangerous. The ISA website makes it easy to find an arborist and also confirm that someone who claims to be an arborist is legitimate: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/arboristsearch
In general, having an arborist evaluate your trees approximately every five years and pruning dead, diseased, or dying limbs is advisable. The ISA has extensive resources to help tree owners manage their trees: https://www.treesaregood.org/treeowner
One of the leading causes of tree damage and premature death is when invasive vines like ivy climb over trees, choking them and rotting their bark. This flyer explains the issue, as well as how you can (quite easily) save your trees.

Saving your trees from strangling vines Instructions on how to remove vines from your trees

Fall Leaves

Homeowners sometimes look at fall leaves as a nuisance and sometimes even cut down trees to avoid having to deal with leaves. This perspective overlooks the substantial benefits afforded by fall leaves and also dramatically overstates the maintenance requirements.
Leaves are critical parts of our ecosystem. They cycle nutrients from trees back into the soil, provide organic matter that improves the soil structure, naturally mulch trees and other plants, and provide necessary habitat for wildlife. For example, if you want butterflies in your yard, you need to leave the leaves: as the Xerces Society explains, almost all butterflies overwinter under leaves, so without those leaves they have no place to live. https://www.xerces.org/blog/leave-the-leaves. The Wild Seed Project also has useful information about the benefits of leaves, as well as suggestions on how to manage them: https://wildseedproject.net/2020/12/leave-the-leaves/.
If leaves fall where you do not want them, such as on a lawn or driveway, you have several options.
- The best option is to rake them into an existing garden to mulch the garden. If you follow best practices and do not cut back your plants in the fall, the leaves will be caught on the stems and will not blow around all winter. Gardens can easily handle several inches of leaves without it impacting emerging plants in the spring.
- Leaves that are on the lawn can simply be mulched into the lawn. Spread the leaves out and use the mulching attachment on a lawnmower to run them over a few times. The remaining small bits of leaves will not smother the grass over the winter. Instead, insects and other arthropods will digest the leaves and incorporate their organic matter into the soil, which will benefit the lawn over time. Note, though, that mowing leaves will kill any insects clinging to them, so there is a tradeoff to the practice.
- If you want to remove some of the leaves from your property, simply rake them to the curb. Abington Township runs an easy and convenient leaf collection program. Details are available here: https://www.abingtonpa.gov/departments/refuse-recycling/leaf-collection-2484